Day 9 - Chute Lake to Penticton 42 km

The view beyond the sand

The morning is overcast, the sky grey with rain clouds. One of the most scenic sections of the trail awaits us today, a downhill grade south towards Penticton and Lake Okanagan. I wonder if it as scenic in the rain. At breakfast we eat our "creature" comforts, the banana rescued in Myra Canyon and my cinnamon bun that escaped the fate of being sucked into the underground world of the unknown gnawing creatures. With great optimism, I opt to start the day without my rain gear.

The trail is still sandy. The downhill grade makes it yet another type of riding to master. Picking up speed as the grade increases, we find that control becomes more difficult, we have to be very attentive.

We haven't gone far when a fine rain starts to fall. We stop to put on some rain gear. M.J.'s well-worn rain booties clearly show that she's an all season cyclist. My newly acquired pair attests to my inexperience with inclement weather.

Comparing booties

The rain is light. I don't find it unpleasant. An old growth forest surrounds the trail. The trunks of the stately Ponderosa Pine trees are a wet rusty red. Some of the trees have succumbed to age or disease. They stand tall—stark, impressive figures against the sky. We catch glimpses of the blue water of Okanagan Lake. As we approach Adra Tunnel, we can see patches of blue sky in the distance.

Circular Adra Tunnel marks the beginning of several long loops in the trail that were built to reduce the steep grade down into Penticton. The spiral tunnel has partially collapsed and is now bypassed by a nicely maintained trail. Before we descend the bypass trail, we cycle up to the entrance where large concrete blocks have been placed across its width creating a tall barrier to prevent entry. One block has been pushed over and if you scrambled up, you could enter the tunnel. We peer into the blackness of the interior. We don't feel tempted to explore further.

Returning to the start of the bypass trail, we notice a bench in a small clearing in the trees. We stop and remove some of our morning rain layers. M.J. spots some berries on a large bush. It looks like the birds have had several lunches of the berries before her discovery but she excitedly picks a handful. She explains that they are Saskatoon berries and that she loved to pick them as a child. I'm not impressed with the flavour but M.J. happily munches on them and picks more.

We ride down the bypass trail without difficulty and rejoin the old railbed. The downhill grade increases. When the grade is uphill, time sometimes passes slowly. We become more conscious of our effort. We notice each small change in our surroundings, the flowers, the large outcropping, the river, each item as we pass by.

But when we are descending a grade, suddenly we are being swept along by gravity, the weight of our trailers pushing us along. Hurtling down the trail, I have the feeling that everyting is rushing past me. That I will miss something.

We enter an area now called Rock Oven Park. Crude but effective ovens were built to bake bread for the small army of men that was needed for the construction of the railway. Several good examples still remain. We also notice warning signs, reminding trail users that summertime is rattlesnake season.

The sun is starting to break through the clouds. Suddenly we emerge from the trees onto an open ridge with a stunning view of Okanagan Lake. Still high on the mountain side, we stop and gaze at the magnificent lake. The huge expanse of blue water extends south toward Penticton and north as far as we can see. Hazy clouds hang over the hills across the lake. It is breathtaking. One of the most beautiful landscapes we have ever seen. We both agree that negotiating sand for the last couple of days has been worth it.

We find the view breathtaking

The day is now bright and sunny with a little bit of a cool breeze blowing along the ridge. We spend a long time, just—looking. I'm reluctant to leave. It is just too perfect.

I'm reluctant to leave. It is just too perfect.

We are summoned to reality by our grumbling tummies. Lunch lies down the trail at the winery in Naramata outside Penticton. We are reminded that not all is perfect in paradise as we come across sections of trail with very deep sand. Either we have finally mastered how to navigate sand or we are very hungry; we easily spin through the loose surface.

Descending the winery access road from the trail, I notice that road is a strange colour. It is not a gravel surface but it is covered in grape seeds. The winery has a lovely terrace overlooking their orchards and the lake. It is not only picturesque but also rather elegant. The other patrons eye us as we sit down. I make a quick trip to the ladies room to tidy-up. Even the washroom is elegant with tile floors and marble vanity. I try to clean myself up without disturbing the lovely facilities. In the the large vanity mirror, I examine my appearance. A little dirty, a little sunburned but I see a smiling figure gazing back.

During lunch, the other groups of cyclists appear. Now dusty cyclists nearly outnumber the other patrons. We have a delicious meal, indulge in a glass of wine and relax in the luxury. We both start to feel rather hot and flushed. Perhaps it is because we neglected to put on sunscreen when we started out this morning with overcast skies. Or perhaps it is the good wine. Most likely a little of both. We get a little giggly. We have to curb our "Trailness" and be ladylike.

Back on the trail, we continue to descend the downhill grade through orchards and vineyards. Lush and green they add another dimension to the beautiful view of Okanagan Lake.

We continue to be amazed by the view.

Arriving in Penticton we head to the hostel. It is an older, large white stucco building. We take our bikes around the back where they have a large cement patio and bike racks. It is mid-afternoon and we will not be able to check in until five o'clock. We unload our wet tents, spreading them out across the fences, picnic table and hedges so that they can dry in the afternoon sun. I spot a garden hose and give our Bob bags a hosing down before we attempt to take them to our room.

As we are working, another cyclist arrives with a Bob trailer. Howard is cycling east along the KVR. We spend some time discussing the trail, exchanging information. In Hope, he had met a group of cyclists that had just finished cycling the Coquihalla section of the trail. They told him it was very rough and advised him not to attempt that section of the trail, especially with his trailer. Following their advice, he cycled up the steep grade of the Coquihalla Highway.

He had intended to access the trail near Juliet by using a gate in the tall fence that edges the highway. Unable to find the gate, he had given up in frustration. He was forced to continue on the highway to Brodie. He also mentions that we should be cautious as there is highway construction in the vicinity of Juliet.

Trail information for this area is rather sketchy. Now with what Howard has told us, I start to wonder what awaits us along the Coquihalla section of the trail. We warn Howard about the trailer swallowing trestle outside Grandforks.

M.J. and I have been discussing our itinerary for the next few days. The great descent into Penticton results in a long climb out of the Okanagan valley as we head towards Faulder. Not only is it a long climb but along this route a section of tracks is still being used. An old steam train is maintained as a tourist attraction. Some new trails are being built to circumnavigate the active railway but locally no one seems to know too much about them. We mull over our options.

Before the new trails were initiated, the alternative was to take the trail until you reach the active section of tracks and then detour onto the highway up to Faulder. Some cyclists arrange their day so that they can ride the train and then detour onto the road. I'm not looking forward to riding along the highway. I have driven it and it is steep, windy and narrow. There is no shoulder to afford a little bit of safety. It is not my kind of cycling.

Our itinerary, planned weeks ago, is to ride 65 km from Penticton to Link Lake. We have also allowed an extra day in case of inclement weather or other delays. If we find the riding day too long, we can stop and backcountry camp above Faulder. Now familiar with our riding pace, I'm sure we will need the extra day.

In the hostel, I find a brochure for a service that shuttles cyclists to Chute Lake for the scenic ride back into Penticton. I suggest to M.J. that we call them to inquire if they can shuttle us to Faulder. If so, we can spend our extra day in Penticton. We agree on the idea and I'm able to arrange to be picked up at at 6:30 a.m. on our departure day.

We enjoy our evening at the hostel. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. Our little room has a spacious feel. M.J. is glad of the change from her chilly sleeping bag.

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